PREPARING FOR YOUR PUPPY
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Whether you decide to acquire your puppy from Willowrun or another breeder, there are many things that must be done to help you prepare for the monumental event of bringing your puppy home. Preparations should begin months in advance, rather than waiting until your puppy is actually reserved. It is our goal to help you to be informed puppy owners, and devise your plan BEFORE you make the decision to bring a puppy into your home. The following information is a lot all at once, but I urge you to take the time to read (and hopefully re-read) it.
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HOUSE-BREAKING
Don't expect too much from your puppy at first! Patience and perseverance are the keys. Eight week old puppies cannot hold themselves all night and don't have a fully developed bladder yet. Often they need to relieve themselves every half hour or so, just like a baby. At 12 weeks they usually have more bladder control, but you do get the odd exception (either way).
Depending on the puppies age, once they drink, they usually have to go to the bathroom in 20 minutes or so. Some of the signs you can watch for are: sniffing the floor, doing circles, running around and whining, these are your “cues” to take them outside.
Your puppy should eat 2 to 3 times a day. We feed here at 8am and 6pm, as that seems to work with most people’s schedules at home. Once puppy eats, within 20 minutes to an hour, it will have to go to the bathroom. This doesn't mean that this is the only time that the puppy will "go". I'm sure there may be times that you will think they are "potty machines"!! But hopefully by following the times and the cues, it will help make it more manageable.
Take the puppy outside and once it does its duty, reward it immediately with voice commands like; good dog! and use lots of praise and petting. If an accident happens, clean it up, but try not to use a cleaner with ammonia in it. Puppies can smell this and it will make them want to use the spot again. Also if they make a mistake in the house, pick it up and take it to where you want them to go. They will smell their smell and want to go there.
By expecting too much or being hard on the puppy you can cause them to make more mistakes because they don't feel comfortable. This causes stress as well. We want to make the puppy comfortable without overdoing it. When house training, keep puppy in a smaller space like the kitchen, until the puppy gets the hang of it. Too much room will make it harder to train. Start small, then get bigger.
Your puppy has been trained to “go” on softwood bedding pellets here, which we use in a rubber tray at one end of their pen. We call this their litter box. By the time they leave, they have very few accidents outside the box, if any. I recommend that you purchase some plain softwood pellets (bedding material or wood stove pellets) prior to pick-up. We purchase them at a farm supply store, such as Peavey Mart, but many large pet stores carry them as well. When puppy comes home, it is a good idea to spread a small patch in your yard where you want your puppy to go to the bathroom. Introduce puppy to it immediately, and he/she should go to that spot when outdoors. Eventually you can eliminate the pellets and that will be their permanent spot.
If you wish, you may purchase something to use temporarily as a litter box. Typical ‘cat’ litter boxes WILL NOT work, as they are too small, and the sides are too high. What we use here is a very large, rubber boot tray with 2" sides, which we purchase at Costco or Giant tiger. We don’t recommend that you use this long term. Put it where they will have access to it at first, then transition it toward the door, then outside the door. The idea is to encourage the puppy to use outside as their permanent bathroom.
CHEWING
Chewing is a fact of life for young puppies. Puppies chew because essentially they are cutting teeth and it feels good. This quickly becomes a habit. Unfortunately you cannot train them not to teethe, but you can control what they teethe on. So you do need to have a plan in place. I always advise families to be prepared with a good variety of toys and teething apparatus, to prevent boredom. The key is....substitution. Inevitably, every puppy wants to chew on things that we don't want them to chew on, especially us. It's a universal law! lol
So, the solution is to always be prepared. Always have toys close by because you have to act quickly. When the puppy starts to chew on something 'off limits', or on your hands, clothing, etc, make the correction with a firm "no!", then immediately substitute with something that it is okay to chew on. Conversely, when the puppy chews on their own toys, make sure to praise them for it. This is equally important. It takes a little time (and lots of consistency) but eventually the puppy will learn their boundaries, and will be able to distinguish between what is okay, and what isn't. The puppy really will want your approval, and is very smart. It will catch on quite quickly.
Consistency is the key. It definitely takes some work to raise a puppy, but a little work now will pay huge dividends in the amazing family dog you will have for many years to come!
CRATING
To crate or not to crate? This is a very personal matter and is entirely up to you. You must feel comfortable with whatever you decide. Either way, the first few nights in the new home can be difficult, for your puppy and for you. However, it does get better, especially if you are consistent. It is simply an adjustment that the puppy must go through, as they miss their litter-mates.
If you do choose to crate, I advise that you choose a spot in your home that will be fairly permanent, usually where puppy will be spending most of its time. After the first week or so, the puppy will consider it their “room”. As with everything else, it will be a transition for them.
A few things regarding crates that I usually advise:
1) Cover the crate entirely with a dark blanket when it is time for sleep at night. This gives the puppy a sense of security (remember, canines in the wild live in dens), and also becomes a signal to them that it is time to sleep.
2) I suggest that you NOT move the crate around frequently in your home. You want to create stability. Bringing the crate to your bedroom at night is probably NOT a good idea.
3) I recommend that you purchase a full-size crate for your puppy. It will probably need the larger size (approx. 42”x28”x30”) when it is full grown; not because it will be 90 lbs, but because you want them to be comfortable and have room to move around a bit. Crates with an adjustable divider panel, so that the crate can “grow” with your puppy are a great option (see puppy supply list).
PUPPY TRAINING
Training is by far the most important part of raising a puppy. As you will find in the Agreement, you will need to register your puppy in basic obedience training classes within the first year. I highly recommend that you not wait too long. There are many Puppy Training courses available, and you should begin before bad habits are formed. Most puppies will actually need more than just the basic “puppy classes”, and I believe that proper training is an investment that will prove invaluable to your family. I suggest that you do some research, and find a trainer that is compatible with you. Some will even offer custom training in your home, and although a bit more costly, is a great option as it can safely be started right away.
Although most puppy classes begin at 8-10 weeks, your puppy is not completely safe until it receives the second set of shots (11-12 weeks). If you wish to join puppy classes before that, make sure that the school practices safety precautions for puppies that are not fully immunized. It is still beneficial for them to be exposed to other puppies, even if they cannot physically interact with them. This will still help with their socialization.
Bad habits are much easier to prevent than to break once established. Training your puppy is an expression of love, and is something that everyone in the family should participate in. A well behaved puppy is a much happier puppy and you’ll be happier too. You must do this for both of you.
VET EXAM
Your puppy will have their first visit with our longtime veterinarians at Graham Animal Hospital, within a week before they leave here. During this visit, they will undergo a thorough well-puppy exam and their first set of vaccinations will be administered. You will receive a record of this with your paperwork.
Although the first vaccinations will protect the puppy somewhat, the effects are accumulative. The next set of vaccinations will be due at around 11-12 weeks (4 weeks after the first). Please make an appointment with a reputable veterinarian for your puppy’s 12 week visit, and bring the record of vaccinations with you on this visit. Your veterinarian will set up a continuing vaccination schedule at that time.
DE-WORMING
We follow a very rigorous de-worming program while your puppy is with us. It is very important to continue with a good de-worming program, as puppies can contract parasites very easily. You will receive a copy of the deworming schedule, which states when and what has been administered here. Please bring this to your vet on your first visit. Your vet will de-worm your puppy again at your 12 week visit and set up a regular de-worming program at that time.
PUPPY SAFETY/HEALTH
For the safety and health of your puppy, we recommend that until your veterinarian advises, please do not bring your young puppy to the dog park, or anywhere else where they could be exposed to multiple, unknown dogs. Although socialization is very important, it is critical to practice “safe” socialization. It is not a good idea, until the second set of vaccinations is complete, to let your puppy socialize with dogs that you are unfamiliar with. (I realize some people already have a dog at home, and it is a good idea to make sure that your dog is healthy, de-wormed and vaccinations are up-to-date prior to puppy coming home).
Young puppies are susceptible to things that an older dog may not be. As your puppy grows, their immune system will strengthen, but while they are young, they are much more fragile. Older dogs (whose health you are not familiar with) may also “carry” certain things while being non-symptomatic. It is important to protect your puppy from these things until they are fully immunized.
Some examples of places to avoid, other than dog parks would be; pet stores, public parks, public walking paths, and anywhere else that multiple dogs would be found. One of the most germ infested areas that I know of is the waiting room floor of your Vet’s office. I always suggest that you carry your puppy in, and don’t allow them on the floor until they are a bit older. The examining room tables are regularly sterilized, but waiting room floors are not. This is where sick animals have been.
I also do not recommend that your puppy wear a collar full-time until it is about 5-6 months of age. Collars can be dangerous to young puppies, as they can tend to get themselves caught on things, and this can lead to injury. You will receive a harness in your Puppy Pack, and we suggest that a harness may be a safer option when walking your puppy until it is well leash trained.
Regarding exercising your puppy; it is very important that they get enough, of course, HOWEVER, it is even more important for hip health, that they don’t overdo it while they are young and growing. Keep walks brief and frequent at first. NEVER jog long distances with your young puppy. This is not recommended until they are 1 year old. Keep any other strenuous exercise (that may cause stress to the joints) to a minimum as well. We also do not recommend frequent stair climbing for the first year, as it is stressful to joints and hips. Puppies love to play, but let them dictate when they are tired, and don’t push beyond that. Playtime and short, frequent walks will keep your puppy fit and happy while they are growing.
TRANSPORTING YOUR PUPPY HOME
Although using a crate, or other dog-restraint system is always safest, under these special circumstances, easing stress is always best. For this reason, if at all possible, I suggest you have someone to hold puppy on their lap to calm and comfort. The car ride home is an extremely stressful “first”, so having someone with the puppy is best option. The puppy may relax, but more likely it will be overly excited, or nervous. If you wish to bring a basket/crate for the ride, that is fine, but please keep the puppy attended, and comforted :)
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
Many breeders disagree with veterinarians on when to spay/neuter a puppy, myself included. Many people ask my opinion on this topic so I will share it with you here. I do not believe that a puppy’s hormones should be altered until they are fully grown (sexually mature), which is what neutering does. For females, sexual maturity equates to the first heat cycle, and for males, it is usually one year (or as close as you can get).
There have been many studies linking early neutering to various health issues later in life. Neutering alters hormone production, and hormones control all of the bodily systems. So it simply makes sense that suppressing certain hormones, especially while still growing, is not a good thing.
Please research this, educate yourself on this matter, and make an informed decision. Vet’s have routinely performed early neutering for a long time without question, but it is possible to do the wrong thing for a long time as well. In the end, the choice of when to neuter is yours, NOT your vet’s. You are the one who will make the appointment and pay the bill.
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fvets.2020.00388/full
MICROCHIPS
Your puppy will be microchipped when you bring her/him home. We use a company called EIDAP, which is an internationally recognized microchip registry. Your puppy will be registered with both the owner and breeder information for added security. You will also receive a tag that corresponds to the microchip in your Puppy Package. Once your puppy is old enough to wear a collar full time, place the tag on the collar. This will identify your puppy in situations when a scanner is not available. You will receive an offer to “upgrade” your microchip package with your paperwork. This is something that I must pass along to you, and I recommend that you read it, but it is completely optional.
I will be using the information that you provided me on your application for the registry. If there is any change in any of this information, please let me know right away. Conversely, if I find that I do not have some of your info (such as postal codes, etc) I will let you know so you can supply me with it prior to pick-up.
FLEA TREATMENT
Puppies are treated with Revolution, an excellent flea/heartworm product, prior to pick-up or shipping (during flea season only). It is a monthly treatment during flea season and will be due for the next treatment at the 12 week vet check-up (if applicable).
PUPPY PACKS
Your puppy will be sent home with a complimentary Puppy Pack. This pack will include all of your pertinent paperwork, as well as a Puppy Care booklet, food scoop, harness, leash, toy, “poop” bags and a mother/litter “scented” blanket. Unfortunately, the complete Puppy Pack is not available for puppies being shipped, as the airline will not allow anything to be sent in the crate with the puppy for safety reasons. The blanket will be in the shipping crate and paperwork is allowed to be taped to the top of the crate.
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PUPPY PURCHASE AGREEMENT
Please take a few moments to read the purchase agreement on the website under “Guarantee”, before reserving. This outlines the obligations of both the buyer and the seller. I would like for you to be familiar with, and in agreement with, with these terms before signing to that effect upon pick-up. For those who are having puppies shipped, I will email a signed copy to you (prior to shipping) and have you sign, scan and send back to me.
PUPPY FOOD
Once you have reserved your puppy, PLEASE PRE-ORDER YOUR FOOD RIGHT AWAY, as delivery can take over a week.
Most importantly to your new puppy, is to continue with the puppy feeding program that we have established. Your puppy is currently on TLC puppy food, which is an excellent quality food. My daughter, Steff (also a breeder), has done analysis of many different high-end dog foods, as has found this to be among the best. The company also offers an excellent delivery service and they are very accommodating. This food is not available in stores, however.
You are under no obligation to remain with the program long term, but I do recommend that you NOT change the puppy’s food in the first few weeks in their new home. Although they are going to wonderful new situations, leaving the litter and the many other changes that will happen during this time are quite stressful for the puppy. Changing food during this time will compound this stress and could cause severe complications. If you choose to use a different feeding program, please wait a month or so, and then transition to the new food gradually.
As for a “raw” diet, I do not recommend this until the puppy is at least six months of age or older. Proper nutrition is extremely important for a growing puppy, and puppy formulas are perfectly balanced for that. Although I believe that a “raw” diet is a wonderful option for older dogs, it is more difficult to ensure that the puppy is getting all of the nutrients it needs without a tremendous amount of expertise and labor.
FEEDING PUPPY
There is a calculator on the website at tlcpetfood.com to determine how much food your puppy should be eating. Up until they are 12 lbs, they will need 1.25 cups per day. Measure it out in the morning, and you may split that amount into 2 or 3 feedings. Weigh your puppy frequently at home, and adhere to these guidelines. It is extremely important (for joint health and otherwise) NOT to overfeed your puppy. Even if they behave like they are still hungry. Please be assured if you follow the guidelines, they will have sufficient food.
Regarding treats; we are programmed to show our love with treats, I understand. Also, all treats are not created equally. If you feel compelled to treat your puppy, or are using it as a training protocol, REMEMBER, anything new that you introduce to your puppy can upset their sensitive digestive system. You must start with a tiny amount (of a good quality treat) at first, and wait and see if there is a reaction in their stools. You can then increase by tiny increments, always checking their stools. If there is even a slight reaction…..back away until they are ready. Always introduce anything new this way, until they are past 6 months of age. A good option to begin with is to use a piece of their kibble for training as well.
If you find that your puppy is a bit stressed, and you notice some loose stool, add a heaping tbsp. of canned pure pumpkin puree (no spices or additives) to their food for a couple of days. This should resolve the problem very quickly.
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